Thursday, 19 June 2014

University of Salford at Graduate Fashion Week

 The University of Salford was the third show on the first day of Graduate Fashion Week, and set itself apart from the rest from the very beginning with a strong and passionate manifesto about feeling alive in an age of the internet and materialism. I can only assume the intention behind this speech was to encourage the audience to view this show from a different perspective to which they'd viewed the others. It seemed that the students had taken the manifesto on-board themselves, with experimentation and contemporary twists featuring strongly in the show. So here are just a few of my favourites: 

Caroline Corby
A classy revamp of the velvet tracksuit, Caroline Corby works a nude palette with splashes of fluorescent yellow onto basketball jerseys, velvet tracksuits and peek-a-boo bodysuits. The odd appearance of sheer fabric brings a holiday vibe to the collection. 

Naomi Valentine
A playful collection of holographics, metallics, sequins and tassels created a visual treat. Focusing on contrasts, this collection featured two main showdowns: the metallic versus the matte, and the boxy versus the ballooned. The strong presence of loose fitting garments teamed with huge flatform trainers brought hard urban vibes to a rather feminine colour palette. 

Rosie Singh
Restricted 90s silhouettes in gold and black foil made for a strikingly sleek and elegant collection reminiscent of Kate Moss. 

Gemma Kearins
This collection could very easily have been taken from the wardrobe of Tilda Swinton when she played the White Witch. Crisp whites in the form of crochet, embroidery anglaise, sheer leggings, skinny jeans and long haired fur skirts created a textural wonderland and brought a contemporary twist to the traditional fairy-tale look. The sharp wire crowns and the giant flatform trainers worked to create a tall, thin silhouette. 

Hester Haywood
This was a simplistic, bohemian collection featuring lightweight materials in the form of unstructured, minimalist garments reminiscent of Amish attire. Colours of white, blue and grey made for an ethereal palette. 

Leanne Hardacre
An austere collection with attitude. Strict lines contrasted with sheer flowing fabrics in the forms of maxi skirts and capes whilst austere pleats and hints of underwear as outerwear added a feminine edge. 

Samantha Clegg
Gold foil, black sequins and bat wings teamed with 3D florals created an impish, mystical collection. 

Nayani Fernando
A collection of elegant and urban streetwear featuring a monochrome palette in the form of maxi dresses and jackets. Sheer panels and baseball caps contributed an urban an sporty edge.

Iqra Rashid
Stealing the entire show, Iqra Rashid's collection featured a modernist twist on the traditional Arabic niqab headscarf. Tented silhouettes and concealed faces featured lively patterns in reds, blues, creams and blacks. The bright red tights worn over shoes were the finishing touch to a collection packed full of the contemporary. 

Ellen Wilson
Refreshing would be the perfect word to describe this collection. Unusual silhouettes were constructed out of sharp, angular lines whilst crisp whites and aqua blues were paired in a variety of ways. The gingham check skirt was one of my favourites. 


Friday, 13 June 2014

University of East London at Graduate Fashion Week

University of East London followed Instituto Marangoni on the Sataurday of Graduate Fashion Week, and featured some of my favorite collections of the entire event. So without further ado, here they are:

Veronica Peduzzi-Davies
This collection earned itself a finalist place at the Graduate Fashion Week Awards Show. Inspired by youth culture, oversized silhouettes and embroidery worked to create a collection packed full of teddy-bear motifs. This childlike quality was contrasted with the sporty elements of towelling and puffer jackets.

Alexandra Huxtable
A refreshing collection with a citrus palette, Alexandra Huxtable looped yellow and green belts through sea green and beige coats and dresses which featured scissor motifs and gingham check.

Chloe Taylor
Using a bare palette of white and cream, Chloe Taylor was able to focus purely on 3D drapes and layering by folding material around metal loops to create a structural silhouette. The effect was a clever manipulation of the way the fabric moved and flowed as the models walked. A truly stunning collection.

Emma Long
Crisp whites owned this collection, with draped silks, copper and silver washers and arm bangles bringing a Grecian air to the runway. This quite elegant aesthetic was given an urban twist in the pairing of sports socks and heels, and the added accessory of a clear plastic clutch bag.

Harriet Rushmer
A collection so lightweight I can imagine it must have felt like wearing nothing at all. Loose dresses, straight cut skirts and voluminous jumpsuits in a variety of sheer fabrics were adorned with a range of colourful and monochrome graphic check prints.

Hollie Tarrier
A gorgeous display of carpet bag florals and jacquard tapestry motifs featuring on a base of cream and white. Parachute and oversized silhouettes bring a modern feel to the traditional patterns and fabrics.

Joel Boyd
A mixture of sports luxe and street wear, this collection combined cosmic galaxy prints with 90s bomber jackets and hoodies to create a casual retro look.

Kamara Appleton
Matte vs Metallic was the main focus of this menswear collection, with geometric metallic lines snaking squares and rectangles across matte black and white tunics and coats.

Katherine Ogden
The cocktail of tiered pleats, candy stripes, and shaggy silhouettes brought a vivid image of ragdolls to mind.  Exaggerated, thick stitching on yellow, red and cream denim created a raggedy texture, whilst drop waist pinafores added a childish element.

Keishin Hoshiko Barrett
Also receiving a finalist place at the Graduate Fashion Week Awards Show, this collection was a clever mix of sport luxe fabrics, geometric prints, vibrant neons and parachute silhouettes which work to make a refreshing bright collection with a zesty vibe.

Kim Stevenson
For this collection, Kim Stevenson pulled out every textural skill in her arsenal. Ripping, stitching, gathering and embroidering created a textural masterpiece. The patchwork qualities were reminiscent of Peruvian garments, and the earthy, neutral tones with flashes of red and blue brings a bohemian feel to each garment.

Kirstie Lee-Eells
One of the only men’s outdoor collections, Kirstie Lee-Eells created a sporty urban nomad look.  A palette of fluorescent orange, dark greys and red appeared on fleece, wool and PVC. A contrast in textures alongside extremely high necks made for unusual layering styles and silhouettes.  

Krasimira Stoyneva-Ivanova
This collection blew me away. The striking use of colour teamed with the precise layering of hair created a visionary spectacle like no other. The use of hair made the garments come alive as the models moved along the catwalk, and the African inspired colour palette was sharp and fresh. Square shoulders and sleek lines packed the collection full of attitude. 

Leanne Beckford
Sports luxe was rife at Graduate Fashion Week, and for that particular style Leanne Beckford’s collection was my favourite. Androgynous black, navy and slate boiler suits were accessorized with oversized bobble hats and coats along with flashing contrasts of fluorescent yellow from sandals and bikini straps. A sporty yet sophisticated collection.

Leanne Bell
Candy colours and playful silhouettes made this collection a sweet treat for the eyes. Iridescent pinks and purples as well as silvers contrasted with matte fluorescents whilst rah-rah skirts and jelly sandals bring an 80s vibe to every look.

Luiz Lula-Filho
Bohemian in style, this peaches and cream collection was the epitome of textural elegance. Cascading chiffon and frayed tassels flowed in ways reminiscent of fine tendrils.

Nicole Da Silva
This collection was a delicate display of feminine shades and fabrics. Creams, lilacs, blacks and greys were teamed with 3d florals, feathers and soft,  sheer fabric to create gracefully textured  garments that exudes summer.

Peter Kyaw
A simplistic base palette in this collection has allowed Peter Kyaw to experiment with lines, shape, and silhouette. Red and pink Tron style lines contour the shape of the models whilst also subverting the rules surrounding form with 3D effect.

Tianyi Li
What better way to close the UEL’s show than with a Gothic collection straight out of a Disney villain’s wardrobe.  Black ruled the runway, with macabre tiered dresses made of tulle creating textured fairytale silhouettes.  Accessories took center stage however, with biker boots entwined in black roses, giant spiked crowns and headpieces, and ghostly capes.