Tuesday, 1 July 2014

Northumbria University at Graduate Fashion Week

The Northumbia show was the last show I got to see on the Saturday of Graduate Fashion Week, and it was my favorite show overall. Here is a selection of some of the collections that really caught my eye: 

Emmie Vincent
Opening the show was noted one-to-watch Emmie Vincent with a stunning white-on-white collection. Using a variety of materials to explore fabric density, texture, matte and shine, the result was a serene range of garments that were minimal yet striking in style. Transparent tulle and silicone rubber responded fantastically to the light of the runway bringing fresh, crisp vibes to each piece. 

Anna Murphy
Yet another white-on-white collection took to the runway, however this time with a glistening insertion of silver. Laser cut leather pieces and paperclip style embellishments create a futuristic vibe, whilst low necklines, pencil skirts and crop tops add an element of femininity. 

Amy Pearson
A darker contrast to the two previous collections, Amy Pearson mixed a dark, tonal palette with gold metallic creating an image reminiscent of Autumnal leaves and petals. Draped and over sized silhouettes bring a masculine edge to the collection. 

Charlotte Grant-Mills
A menswear sports collection with an 80s vibe, Charlotte Grant Mills was inspired by the body's production of adrenaline. Pink highlights and piping imitate the color of the cells within our adrenal gland. High shine bomber jackets contribute to an over sized silhouette that contrasts with the sleek streamlined lower-half. 

Caroline Smith
One of the few swimwear collections at Graduate Fashion Week, Caroline Smith reminded everyone that it was Summer with a covetable, modern and  interchangeable Summer wardrobe. Inspired by St Ives in Cornwall, this collection is very reminiscent of 1950s resort wear. Bold colors and harbor visuals created a palette so zesty and fresh I was salivating as I watched it. 

Chloe Sanders 
Kaleidoscope prints in blue, white and black made this collection a visual masterpiece. A muted palette subtly hinted to the inspiration of the Scottish landscape and its natural elements. Silhouettes mimicked the traditional Scottish highland dress, whilst checks and graphic prints brought a punk element to the collection. 

Taja Bright
Inspired by the sense of belonging to something greater, Taja Bright used denim, knitwear and patchwork to create a nomad-style collection. Silhouettes were reminiscent of vintage work-wear, but were modernized with bandana scarf prints, bomber jackets and baggy drop-crotches. 

Esther Rigg
Taking us into the future, Esther Rigg's collection was inspired by our ever-growing knowledge of space in contrast with our lacking knowledge and understanding of the oceans on our planet. A blue, silver and black palette brought the two worlds together alongside geometric prints and space-suit style silhouettes.

Ciara Artt
Inspired by the regeneration of Belfast and the community divisions that still exist, Ciara Artt used innovative pattern cutting and contemporary digital printing to create garments and silhouettes that reflect armored vehicles and body protection. 

Rachel Jefferson
If I was to ask you to imagine a womenswear collection inspired by Margaret Thatcher, I'm sure the conjured image wouldn't be all that fetching, let alone something you'd find at Graduate Fashion Week. Rachel Jefferson however has proved us all wrong and put powerful women in politics on the fashion map. Strong, over sized yet relaxed silhouettes hark back to the Margaret Thatcher days, whilst imagery of graffiti and street art and the reworking of traditional woven cloths into prints add a modern edge. Experimental layering of a range of textures from wool and leather to silks and foil bring a deconstructed grunge element to the collection. 

Katrina Wagster
Inspired by Roma travellers, Katrina Wagster mixes traditional tailoring with contemporary pattern cutting. Distressed 1930s style work wear such as heavy black work boots contrasted with a range of soft, light textures that added femininity. 



Friday, 13 June 2014

University of East London at Graduate Fashion Week

University of East London followed Instituto Marangoni on the Sataurday of Graduate Fashion Week, and featured some of my favorite collections of the entire event. So without further ado, here they are:

Veronica Peduzzi-Davies
This collection earned itself a finalist place at the Graduate Fashion Week Awards Show. Inspired by youth culture, oversized silhouettes and embroidery worked to create a collection packed full of teddy-bear motifs. This childlike quality was contrasted with the sporty elements of towelling and puffer jackets.

Alexandra Huxtable
A refreshing collection with a citrus palette, Alexandra Huxtable looped yellow and green belts through sea green and beige coats and dresses which featured scissor motifs and gingham check.

Chloe Taylor
Using a bare palette of white and cream, Chloe Taylor was able to focus purely on 3D drapes and layering by folding material around metal loops to create a structural silhouette. The effect was a clever manipulation of the way the fabric moved and flowed as the models walked. A truly stunning collection.

Emma Long
Crisp whites owned this collection, with draped silks, copper and silver washers and arm bangles bringing a Grecian air to the runway. This quite elegant aesthetic was given an urban twist in the pairing of sports socks and heels, and the added accessory of a clear plastic clutch bag.

Harriet Rushmer
A collection so lightweight I can imagine it must have felt like wearing nothing at all. Loose dresses, straight cut skirts and voluminous jumpsuits in a variety of sheer fabrics were adorned with a range of colourful and monochrome graphic check prints.

Hollie Tarrier
A gorgeous display of carpet bag florals and jacquard tapestry motifs featuring on a base of cream and white. Parachute and oversized silhouettes bring a modern feel to the traditional patterns and fabrics.

Joel Boyd
A mixture of sports luxe and street wear, this collection combined cosmic galaxy prints with 90s bomber jackets and hoodies to create a casual retro look.

Kamara Appleton
Matte vs Metallic was the main focus of this menswear collection, with geometric metallic lines snaking squares and rectangles across matte black and white tunics and coats.

Katherine Ogden
The cocktail of tiered pleats, candy stripes, and shaggy silhouettes brought a vivid image of ragdolls to mind.  Exaggerated, thick stitching on yellow, red and cream denim created a raggedy texture, whilst drop waist pinafores added a childish element.

Keishin Hoshiko Barrett
Also receiving a finalist place at the Graduate Fashion Week Awards Show, this collection was a clever mix of sport luxe fabrics, geometric prints, vibrant neons and parachute silhouettes which work to make a refreshing bright collection with a zesty vibe.

Kim Stevenson
For this collection, Kim Stevenson pulled out every textural skill in her arsenal. Ripping, stitching, gathering and embroidering created a textural masterpiece. The patchwork qualities were reminiscent of Peruvian garments, and the earthy, neutral tones with flashes of red and blue brings a bohemian feel to each garment.

Kirstie Lee-Eells
One of the only men’s outdoor collections, Kirstie Lee-Eells created a sporty urban nomad look.  A palette of fluorescent orange, dark greys and red appeared on fleece, wool and PVC. A contrast in textures alongside extremely high necks made for unusual layering styles and silhouettes.  

Krasimira Stoyneva-Ivanova
This collection blew me away. The striking use of colour teamed with the precise layering of hair created a visionary spectacle like no other. The use of hair made the garments come alive as the models moved along the catwalk, and the African inspired colour palette was sharp and fresh. Square shoulders and sleek lines packed the collection full of attitude. 

Leanne Beckford
Sports luxe was rife at Graduate Fashion Week, and for that particular style Leanne Beckford’s collection was my favourite. Androgynous black, navy and slate boiler suits were accessorized with oversized bobble hats and coats along with flashing contrasts of fluorescent yellow from sandals and bikini straps. A sporty yet sophisticated collection.

Leanne Bell
Candy colours and playful silhouettes made this collection a sweet treat for the eyes. Iridescent pinks and purples as well as silvers contrasted with matte fluorescents whilst rah-rah skirts and jelly sandals bring an 80s vibe to every look.

Luiz Lula-Filho
Bohemian in style, this peaches and cream collection was the epitome of textural elegance. Cascading chiffon and frayed tassels flowed in ways reminiscent of fine tendrils.

Nicole Da Silva
This collection was a delicate display of feminine shades and fabrics. Creams, lilacs, blacks and greys were teamed with 3d florals, feathers and soft,  sheer fabric to create gracefully textured  garments that exudes summer.

Peter Kyaw
A simplistic base palette in this collection has allowed Peter Kyaw to experiment with lines, shape, and silhouette. Red and pink Tron style lines contour the shape of the models whilst also subverting the rules surrounding form with 3D effect.

Tianyi Li
What better way to close the UEL’s show than with a Gothic collection straight out of a Disney villain’s wardrobe.  Black ruled the runway, with macabre tiered dresses made of tulle creating textured fairytale silhouettes.  Accessories took center stage however, with biker boots entwined in black roses, giant spiked crowns and headpieces, and ghostly capes.