Tuesday, 24 February 2015

New York Fashion Week: A Summary.

So fashion week season is well and truly underway, and whilst Somerset House is packed with the UK's fashion finest, I thought I'd briefly review what went on at New York Fashion Week with some of my personal favourites. Saying that 70s style is going to be huge for A/W 2016 is a ridiculous understatement. In this post alone you will see a variety of modern adaptations of the era; from 70s Morocco to 70s punk, just give it a few months and it will be out with the 90s choker and in with those bell bottoms. 
I'm also very happy to announce that an embracing of all things grunge, gothic and macabre is on the cards. I'm hoping the next time winter comes around I won't be alone in the witch-at-a-funeral look. We all know that the key to bringing a stylish edge to any one colour ensemble is texture, and both 3.1 Phillip Lim and Thomas Browne are giving us a textural masterclass with their latest collections. 
For the more colourful minded among us, do not fret. The cutester trend will be given plenty of inspiration from the likes of Karen Walker and Jeremy Scott and their playful Crayola palettes. 
If you're sitting on the fence style wise, do not worry, as there's one trend we can all abide by, and that's embellishment. Anything that can be glued, sown and stitched on is on the table. Think lace, feathers, beads, embroidery, over-sized sequins, pearls, patches etc etc. 
But before I give too much away, here are my favourite collections from New York Fashion Week. 

Carolina Herrera
Carolina Herrera AW15 New York Fashion Week
Inspired by water, this collection consists of cool blue and grey hues. The fluid hemlines and glistening fabrics emulate water's effortless movement. Graphic prints combined with textural fabrics and layering create a feast for the eyes. 

Karen Walker
Karen Walker AW15 New York Fashion Week
Cliche 70s with a modern twist. Bold prints in retro hues contrast strikingly with shearling coats and clean cut leather, whilst short hemlines are paired with classic knee high boots. 

3.1 Phillip Lim
3.1 Phillip Lim AW15 New York Fashion Week
An edgy collection with grunge yet sophisticated vibes. Distressed jumpers are layered with shirts and jackets and statement coats. 

Alice + Olivia
Alice + Olivia AW15 New York Fashion Week
The swinging Sixties meets 70s Rock 'n' roll chic. Bohemian elements are combined with rich textures consisting of strong embellishment (beading, feathers, lace).  Lace high necks and ball skirts in jewel tones integrate with floral jacquard, whilst chunky knits and over the knee boots create a strikingly feminine silhouette. 

Thomas Browne
Thomas Browne AW15 New York Fashion Week
Nothing like an Edwardian funeral for a fashion show.  Browne's theatrical pieces were all part of a  show staged in a mock 19th century surgical theater. Both the gothic and the macabre were brought to life with precise tailoring with sharp lines and cuts, and modernly inventive embellishment. 

Reem Arca
Reem Arca AW15 New York Fashion Week
 Rock 'n' Roll 70s meets 80s New Romantic. Embellishment was the key focus of this collection, with fur, embroidery, tulle, feathers, lace and beads taking center stage. 

Vivienne Tam
Vivienne Tam AW15 New York Fashion Week
 Mix Victorian inspired silhouettes with Asian prints and you've got something rather decadent. Baroque patterns with Victorian blouses and lace high necks makes for a modern take on a vintage look. 

Libertine AW15 New York Fashion Week
This reminded me so much of the days when I used to hang out in Camden. It's the Cutester trend meets Wednesday Adams and I love it. Deconstructed plaid and whimsical, cartoonish motifs bring a punk element to the collection. 

Tory Burch
Tory Burch AW15 New York Fashion WeekAnother take on the 70s trend but this time with a Moroccon twist. Embellished skirts and printed coats in cool, neutral tones contrast with bursts of claret. 

Badgley Mischka
Badgley Mischka AW15 New York Fashion Week
 Muted metallics and glistening plaid make for a collection that's sophisticated and ornate with subtle, underlying punk themes. Boucle and paisley help to add a vintage feel. 

Vera Wang
Vera Wang AW15 New York Fashion Week
 An understated yet powerful collection with masculine tailoring. Wide-legs and loose fits create straight, urban silhouettes.

Rodarte AW15 New York Fashion Week
Tight leather trousers and textural slip dresses ooze sexiness, whilst Victorian blouses and embellishments of Ostrich feathers, sequins and tassels bring some class along for the ride. 

Jenny Packham
Jenny Packham AW15 New York Fashion Week
An elegant collection which divulges in embellishment and experimental layering. Bold textures such as oversized sequins, crystals and pearls bring something new to each garment. 

Naeem Khan
Naeem Khan AW15 New York Fashion Week
A mixture of intricate beading, ombre dresses and metallics. This collection is full of eye-catching pieces. 

Marc by Marc Jacobs
Marc by Marc Jacobs AW15 New York Fashion Week
I would happily wear this collection now. Neckerchiefs, blazers, punky plaid, tulle-petticoats and Creepers make for a collection that only the disparate youth can pull off.  

Wendy Nicholl
Wendy Nicholl AW15 New York Fashion Week
Like something out of the American Horror Story dressing room, this Puritan-style, witchy collection is sensuous and seductive, with a very present gothic edge. 

Delpozo AW15 New York Fashion Week
This playful collection brings childhood to the fore. Pinafores, capes and rounded silhouettes are reminiscent of Hansel and Gretel, but with a touch of charm. 

Jeremy Scott
Jeremy Scott AW15 New York Fashion Week
Imagine CBeebies had a high fashion make-over, and it will look something a bit like this. Coloured tights and patchwork dresses are matched with Mary Janes whilst childish cartoon graphics with  multicoloured stripes and zig-zags make your eyes hurt.  

Hugo Boss
Hugo Boss AW15 New York Fashion Week
Sharp lines and structured silhouettes create a stern yet elegant collection with a hint of androgyny. Colour block techniques and sequin panels direct the eyes and creates form. 

Marchesa AW15 New York Fashion Week
Like something out of Downton Abby this collection takes us back to the days of sultry sexiness.  Feminine yes, but fierce and strong also are the women for whom this collection was designed. 

Anna Sui
Anna Sui AW15 New York Fashion Week
Another 70s collection, but this one has hippy written all over it. Cropped flares and dungarees featuring bold prints are loud and striking, but there's a softness in the fabrics that's graceful and earthly. 

All images from Vogue.co.uk

1 comment :

  1. such a great review! my personal favourite has to be Reem Arca and Anna Sui, completely in love with the hippy trend! x